Heartleaf Crème Calming Tube

Water (Aqua), Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycerin, Triethylhexanoin, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Lauryl DimethiconePolyglycerin-3 Cross-polymer, Sodium Chloride, Isododecane,Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Phenyl Trimethicone, DimethiconeVinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl DimethiconeMethicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Sodium Citrate,Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Panthenol, Propanediol, Silica, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Dipropylene Glycol, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Sodium Phytate, Benzyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Glycosa-minoglycans, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Corallina Ocinalis Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Tocopherol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ethyl-hexylglycerin.

This is a water-based emulsion, but structurally it reads more like a silicone-forward "cushion crème" than a classic humectant/emollient moisturizer. Water leads, but from position 2 onward you're looking at a stack of silicones and silicone elastomers (Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Isododecane, Phenyl Trimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer) doing most of the textural work — that's five separate silicone-family ingredients, which is a lot even for K-beauty "silky whipped" texture engineering. This is a formula built for sensory finish (soft-focus, fast-absorbing, good makeup-primer feel) more than for deep occlusive barrier repair.

The two functional actives are Niacinamide (position 5, ahead of the preservative-booster glycols — plausibly 2–5%, third-party estimates land around 2–3%) and Houttuynia Cordata Extract (position 17, the brand's namesake "heartleaf" ingredient). Everything after Houttuynia is a long tail of humectants (Panthenol, Propanediol), a genuinely large secondary botanical/soothing complex (Melia Azadirachta leaf and flower extracts, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate), and then, from roughly position 26 onward, a cluster of trace-dose trend ingredients — hydrolyzed GAGs, holy basil, three separate hyaluronic acid forms, turmeric, red algae — all sitting in the sub-1% tail where order stops being meaningful and inclusion is mostly about label storytelling.

Structurally this makes sense as a lightweight, fragrance-free, sensitive-skin daily moisturizer built around calming + brightening claims. It is not a rich "barrier repair crème."

• Niacinamide — worth having. Positioned high enough to plausibly be in the 2–5% range that clinical trials actually use. RCTs at 2% and 5% show reduced hyperpigmentation via suppressed melanosome transfer over 4 weeks, and a vehicle-controlled 12-week trial at ~5% improved fine lines, sallowness, and barrier function. Solid, real evidence, standard practice concentration.
• Houttuynia Cordata Extract — worth having, and reasonably well-positioned (17th). A randomized, placebo-controlled trial of a Houttuynia-toner (n=16, 8 weeks) found a 78% anti-sebum effect vs. 49% for placebo and significantly higher hydration by weeks 6–8. Real signal, but small sample — treat as a single small trial, not settled science.
• Melia Azadirachta (Neem) Leaf Extract + Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract — split into two separate listings, which reads like ingredient-count padding for the "neem" halo rather than two functionally distinct inputs. Neem has a long traditional-medicine antimicrobial/anti-inflammatory reputation, but I found essentially no published human cosmetic-dose clinical trials — the literature that exists is mostly in vitro/traditional-use write-ups, not RCTs at cosmetic concentrations. Flagging the evidence gap explicitly — plausible mechanism, unproven at this dose.
• Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (licorice derivative) — worth having, mid-positioned. A 2024 keratinocyte study found the combination of allantoin, bisabolol, panthenol, and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate mitigated UVB-induced PGE2 synthesis, and a separate study showed it attenuated atopic-dermatitis-like lesions in a human skin equivalent model. Both are cell-culture/skin-equivalent models, not human clinical trials — promising, but in vitro/ex vivo only.
• Panthenol, Propanediol, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Phytate — standard humectant/pH-adjuster/chelator workhorses.
• Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid: Gimmick. Three separate HA forms, all clustered in the final third of the list (~29th, 32nd, 34th). This looks like INCI-list padding to be able to say "triple hyaluronic acid" on packaging rather than a genuine multi-molecular-weight strategy — a real multi-weight-HA strategy front-loads at least one form higher in the list. Each individually is at negligible concentration here.